2. Explore the Cite

This is what everyone comes to Carcassonne to see! It is a truly breathtaking sight, and should be approached by foot across the ancient Pont Vieux. The fairy tale walled city fell into disrepair once it was no longer strategically important, but was saved from destruction by Viollet-le-Duc in the nineteenth century and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Citadel is surrounded by a double set of turret-studded walls; walk past the pretty 1900 carousel (it's usually in use) and enter the Cite through the Narbonnaise gate. Do not miss the magnificent Basilica church of Saint Nazaire with its wonderful stained glass windows and famous organ, and the Chateau Comtal, built in the twelfth century on Roman remains. Walk round the ramparts at sunset and look across to the Pyrenees. There are a number of museums and shows or activities you can visit, one of the most interesting being the Schools Museum, which shows what a school was like in the nineteenth century. To learn something of the Cathars and the Albigensian Crusade, visit the Imaginarium, an interactive museum situated on the rue St. Jean. However unfortunately it is not open out of season, except to groups, who must book in advance. The telephone number is 04 68 47 78 78, or email Imaginarium@art-hist.com. You can also take the little train, a 20 minute, multi-language sightseeing tour of the turrets and ramparts. If you fancy a 20 minute trip by horse and trap around the ramparts, with full commentary (in French), they are available from the beginning of April until the end of November, and for groups all through the year if you reserve in advance (tel. 04 68 71 54 57/06 87 82 29 82, or email spidatel@wanadoo.fr). Full details of these and other attractions and a plan of the Cite will be found in the apartments.

Only around 120 people actually live in the Cite now, but the narrow streets are lined with shops, cafes and restaurants. The shops are very varied, and although there are the usual tacky ones, there are many that are interesting to visit. Out of season not all the shops, restaurants and so on open but on the other hand you will be spared the crowds that visit this spectacular monument in July and August.

Guided tours are also available in season. Get details from the Tourist Office at 28 rue de Verdun.

3. Explore the Trivalle area

This is the small but picturesque district across the other side of the Pont Vieux and directly under the Cite, comprising two main street, the rue de la Barbacane and the rue Trivalle. Visit the sixteenth century Ste Marie du Sauveur chapel with its bell tower, and the recently renovated Montmorency's House with its circular turret, also dating from the sixteenth century. The Hotel de Pelletier is a monument to the textile industry, which was of great importance to the town at one time. Immediately below the Chateau Vicomtal is the nineteenth century Eglise St Gimer, also well worth a visit, and of course there is an excellent view down onto it from the Chateau. Finally, there is an excellent commercial art gallery, La Maison du Chevalier in the rue Trivalle, with paintings, sculpture and photography.

4. Go for a boat trip on the Canal du Midi

The Canal du Midi is the other UNESCO World Heritage Site that you can see in Carcassonne. It was the vision more than three centuries ago, of Pierre-Paul Riquet, whose dream it was to link the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. It was funded largely by himself, and although others had wanted to do this, he was the one who managed to funnel the various waters of the Montagne Noire into a source for the canal. You can take a round trip from Carcassonne from the beginning of April to the beginning of November. From 1st April to 15th June and from 15th September to early November there is one trip a day, except Mondays, beginning at 2.30 p.m. and lasting two and a half hours. From 15th June to 15th September there are four trips every day, leaving 10.00 a.m. (two and a half hours), 2.00 p.m. and 4.00 p.m. (one hour 45 minutes) and 6.00 p.m. (two and a half hours). There is commentary in English. The trip includes going through some locks (the oval shape of the locks is one of the hallmarks of the Canal du Midi) and a history of the canal. It is lined either side by the characteristic double row of plane trees, some of which are over 300 years old. If you are there in spring you will be enchanted by the wild iris and gladioli that grow along the banks. Embark opposite the railway station, just to the east of the bridge. Buy tickets in advance or on the spot. For details phone Lou Gabaret on 04 68 71 61 26 or 06 80 47 54 33.

You can also hire boats yourself, just for the day or for longer periods. Enquiries at Societe Nautie, 15 quai Riquet, telephone 04 68 71 88 95.

5. Hire a bike and cycle along the towpath

If you are staying at Carcassonne out of season and the boat trips are no longer running, you can still enjoy the canal and its wonderful views of the Cite by walking or cycling in either direction along the tow path. You can hire bicycles from the same place as you embark on a boat for the canal trip, opposite the railway station. Either take a picnic which you can either buy from the market or local shops before you go or buy something from one of the villages you pass, or you can find a local brasserie or cafe as you cycle along. You will find maps of the area in the apartments so you can have an idea of where your route will take you.

6. Spend a day in Toulouse

Toulouse is the fourth largest city in France, and only an hour away by train. Services are frequent and the station is only a few minutes walk from the apartments. Toulouse station is just across the Canal du Midi from the city centre and a good place to start your day in the "Rose city", so called because of the beautiful brick buildings that are a feature of its architecture. There are numerous museums and monuments to see, and you can also wander down to the River Garonne. Toulouse is of course an excellent gastronomic centre so you can be sure of an excellent meal while you are there. There are city plans of Toulouse and details of the various museums and other attractions, in the apartments. If you think a trip to Toulouse will be on your agenda, visit the official Toulouse tourism website.

7. Go to a show at the Salle du Dome

The season runs from the beginning of October to the end of May. Productions range from two to a dozen or more per month, depending on the time of year, and there is a great variety of performances, including opera, operetta, dance, musical comedy, jazz, singing, variety, humour, theatre (including Shakespeare in French!). Your French may not be up to going to plays, but there is plenty else of interest. Unfortunately as yet there is no web site, but you can email theatre@mairie-carcassonne.fr, or telephone 04 68 25 33 13. A full printed programme for the year is available from the Tourist Office.

8. Spend a day at the Lac de la Cavayere

This lake is within one and a half to two hours' walking distance of the apartments if you are energetic and half to three quarters of an hour by bike (maps and directions in the apartments) or you can take the number 7 bus from Square Gambetta. A walk round the lake takes about an hour, and features a wide range of ecological and landscape environments. There is an island in the centre which is a reserve for aquatic birds. The lake has three large beaches and is also the centre of various leisure activities, apart from those involving motor boats. It is the place to go for a swim in the summer, and you can hire pedaloes, fish, have a picnic, play mini-golf and volley-ball, and go horse or pony-riding. The lake is closed out of season; check the dates with the tourist office.

Near the lake you will also find an Australian wild life park with ostriches and emus.

9. Walk along the banks of the River Aude

There are easy-to-follow trails along the banks of the River Aude that you can either cycle or walk along. You will have wonderful views of the Cite so take your camera. Walking to the south west the route takes you past the Paicherou Leisure Centre and through the shady Plaine de Mayrevieille, where you will find a fitness trail, and the Bois de la Piboulette, and to the north east you come to the racecourse. There are map in the apartments.

Walking is popular in France, and you will find the Cartes Randonees in all bookshops, which give details of the various trails. Also useful are the IGN Blue Series maps. One local trail you can follow is detailed below.

10. Visit the Abbey of St Hilaire by foot or on horseback

You can follow a trail to St Hilaire, about 24 kilometres away. Your route starts at the Place St. Gimer in the Cité, and then takes you through Cazilhac, Cavanac, Leuc, then Verzeille, either side of the Lauquet valley, until you finally reach St. Hilaire, a wonderful hilltop village with a splendid fortified Benedictine abbey founded in the eighth century. It is open all through the year (as with many attractions in France it is closed from midday until 2.00 pm). For your return there is a local bus service between St Hilaire and Carcassonne and you can get an up-to-date timetable from the Tourist Office.

11. Visit the hill of Pech Mary

A short walk to the south-east of the Cite is the hill of Pech Mary, on which is an arboretum covering 100 hectares of hillside. As well as indigenous trees there are many varieties that have been acclimatised to the region, and the plan is that it will become an ecomuseum. It is a delight to wonder around, with many picnic and rest areas where you can stop and listen to the bird song. The paths have many explanatory signs and games for children. It is an ideal place to relax and enjoy nature, whether on foot, horseback or bicycle. Pech Mary is also the location of "La Cite des Oiseaux", a spectacle of large birds such as falcons, vultures, storks and others, in free flight with the magnificent backdrop of the Cite behind. Birds from the Cite des Oiseaux have been used in many films such as The English Patient and La Gloire de Mon Pere. It is open from the beginning of March to the end of November. Email info@citedesoiseaux.com or ring 04 68 47 88 99 for details.

12. Go swimming

If you are in Carcassonne out of season and the Lac de la Cavayere is closed, you can still go swimming. The Paicherou swimming pool is open only in the summer, but the Grazailles pool in the rue du Moulin de la Seigne is open all year round, while the Viguier pool on the rue Jules Verne is open just in the winter. Maps showing the location of the swimming pools will be found in the apartments.

13. Do some sport

There are many other sporting activities that you can follow during a stay in Carcassonne. Some, such as tennis, cycling, riding, fishing, golf, boules, bowling, go-karting, skate-boarding and flying, are available within walking distance of the apartments or a short taxi ride. For others you do really need a car for ease of access. There are very comprehensive details of sports available at www.carcassonneinfo.com.

14. Take the train to Limoux - or other destinations

If you are in Carcassonne without a car, take advantage of the proximity of the apartments to the railway station. There are several day trips you could make, other than the obvious one to Toulouse, among them a trip to the delightful town of Limoux. Limoux is an interesting gastronomic centre, famous for its sparkling wine, the Blanquette de Limoux, but do not miss the nougat, and at Christmas the local galette des Rois, le Limos, is particularly delicious. Among the many attractions of Limoux is the Catha-rama, a 30 minute all-day audio-visual history of the Cathars, open from Easter to the end of October - there is an English version. There is a special show for 5-11 year olds. There are several other interesting destinations you can visit easily by train, so walk up to the station and collect copies of the latest timetables, go back to your apartment and look at the map and other information leaflets you will find there, and decide which routes appeal to you. Destinations include (with approximate journey times - though these vary considerably depending on whether it is a fast or slow train) Alet-les-Bains (45 minutes), Quillan (1 hour 15 mins), Bram (10 mins), Esperaza (1 hour), Narbonne (45 minutes), and Castelnaudary (20 minutes). It is approximately an hour and a quarter to Agde, if you fancy a day by the sea, but you must change at Narbonne. You will find more suggestions in the apartments.

15. Visit one of the "circular villages"


There are a fair number of these villages spread over the Languedoc-Roussillon area, and one of the most attractive is that of Bram, only a 10 minute train ride away from Carcassonne. The circular villages appeared in the middle ages, well before the emergence of the rectangular "bastide". The streets of these towns spiral out from a central point, usually the church or castle. The circular structure is thought to have been defensive, as it made it more difficult for an invading enemy to take the population by surprise.

16. Explore the Cathar castles and other local sights on a bus tour

"La Marguerite" tours have a wide selection of destinations, including the various Cathar castles, the cave of Limousis, the cities/towns of Narbonne, Mirepoix, Minerve, Limoux, Lagrasse and Esperaza, the beautiful region of the Montagne Noire, and last but not least, a visit to the wine tasting caves of the Corbieres region. Email guides.payscathare@wanadoo.fr or promotion@carcassonne-tourisme.com. Cars Teissier also do half day tours in season; ring Cars Teissier on 04 68 47 85 20. In both cases more details are available from the tourist office.

17. Take a helicopter trip over the Cite

For details of helicopter flights over Carcassonne and the surrounding area ring Aude Hele, telephone 04 68 71 58 11 or 04 68 25 05 54.

18. Plan your trip to coincide with local events

To the people of the surrounding areas, Carcassonne is a focal point, meeting place and venue for many important events all through the year. Here are some of them:

Bastille Day, 14th July A truly spectacular firework display - the Cite looks as though it is being set on fire with 25 minutes of fireworks.

Carcassonne Festival The festival takes place throughout July and there are many events, both in the Cite and in the Bastide St. Louis. If you are in Carcassonne during this period, many of the events take place in the Place Carnot and can be viewed from the apartments. The programme contains opera, dance, theatre, jazz, salsa, country and western and other concerts, folklore, street-theatre and comedy. Details of the more formal events can be viewed on the web at www.festivaldecarcassonne.com.

Fiesta de Toros This takes place the last two weekends of August.

Les Chevaliers de la Rose This re-enactment of the days of the troubadours takes place in the Cite mainly in the first two weeks of August, with one or two events from mid-June. Knight and horses in full costume, along with processions of jugglers, acrobats, mime artists, gymnasts, dancers and musicians will entertain you with jousting and processions. Contact the Tourist Office for ticket information.

The flea market of La Trivalle This takes place in September each year in the streets of La Trivalle, the district directly underneath the Cite.

Les Estivales d'Orgue de la Cite These organ concerts take place from mid-June to mid-September, at the Basilica of Saint-Nazaire in the Cite, on the famous organ. The concerts are free and take place every Sunday and on all public holidays during this period. For details contact the Tourist Office.

Dame Carcas Pig Fair This event takes place at the beginning of March - for more information contact the tourist office.

Fairs There are three big fairs in Carcassonne during the year. The first is on 6th March, the second is on 6th September and the last is the Fair of Ste Catherine on 25th November. These fairs are huge events, with crafts and produce from the region and elsewhere. They are aimed at locals as much as tourists, and the town is always packed out, with parking around the outskirts of the Bastide St Louis at a premium.

Antique fairs These take place at the end of March - contact the tourist office for details.

The Festival of Foie Gras This takes place the weekend before Christmas. The market at Sall du Dome is filled with stalls selling foie gras and other delicacies and specialities, and the menus of all the restaurants and cafes feature foie gras.

There are many other festivals, fairs, exhibitions and other events of interest in Carcassonne throughout the year. There is an excellent day-by-day list of everything that is going on at the official Carcassonne tourist website (click on the "diary"), or you can contact the tourist office. All the information above is correct as at the time of writing, but please check latest information with the tourist office.